K-beauty is in its second heyday. Popular for its innovative formulations, layered skincare routines, and emphasis on natural, glowing skin, the movement resonates with a myriad of consumers. In 2023, the global K-beauty market was valued at $12.54B—expected to grow at a CAGR of 8.43% in the upcoming years, amounting to $25.98B by 2032. The proliferation of K-beauty has led to a shift in the US cosmetics market. American consumers are now increasingly prioritizing skincare over makeup, adopting multistep skincare regimes, and seeking out products with gentle yet effective ingredients.
Amorepacific Group CMO Jungyeon Kim attributes the second K-beauty wave to e-commerce. “With the advent of K-wave, international consumers already have a foundational understanding and appreciation of Korea and its brands,” Kim tells BeautyMatter. “Korean culture is present on various commerce platforms such as Amazon, Lazada, and TikTok Shop”—making overseas markets far more accessible for Korean brands today.
Additionally, a report by Kantar and TikTok reveals that Korean media has also played a part in increasing interest in K-beauty, with 92% of TikTok users stating they are now more interested in Korean beauty products due to K-drama/K-pop.
The K-Sunscreen Surge
As attention towards sun protection continues to grow in the US—with69.4% of adults stating they routinely use at least one form of SPF daily—Korean sunscreens in particular are gaining traction among shoppers. According to Spate NYC, US Google searches for “Korean Sunscreen” are up +77.3% in the last year. Brands trending alongside the search term include Klairs with 8.3K average monthly searches (+19.6% YoY growth), Neogen with 3.6K average monthly searches (+41.6% YoY growth), and Missha with 3.8K average searches per month (+121.9% YoY growth).
The inquisitiveness for such SKUs is further evidenced through Amazon, as Market Defense recognizes a +123% YoY growth in demand for K-sunscreen on the e-commerce platform, led by searches for “Beauty of Joseon Sunscreen” (198K searches a month). Additionally, 28% of the top-selling sunscreen brands on Amazon belong to the K-beauty sector and 36% of the top 25 search terms in the facial sunscreen category are branded K-beauty terms.
As affirmed by Kim, K-sunscreens are flourishing on social media. At the time of writing, the search term “Korean sunscreen” receives 8.3 million views per week on TikTok and “best Korean sunscreens” houses over 220.8M posts. Reigning supreme, #beautyofjoseon gains 9.6M average weekly views alongside searches for K-sunscreen, and the search term “Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun” has had an increase of 300% on the app in the past two years. Other popular product searches include Skin1004’s Madagascar Centella Sun Serum, Round Lab’s Birch Juice Moisturizing Sun Cream, Haruharu’s Black Rice Moisture Airyfit Daily Sunscreen, and Isntree’s Hyaluronic Acid Watery Sun Gel.
Formidable Formulations
But what’s driven consumers to turn to K-sunscreens over products already available in their home market? The eager American adoption of K-sunscreen is a result of the category's innovative formulations, with products being positioned to go beyond sun protection and instead, be an extension of skincare. The Korean FDA (KFDA) allows sunscreens to have additional skincare benefits by classifying them as cosmetics, making them more appealing to consumers seeking multifunctional offerings.
Product Development and Marketing Consultant Tamar Kamen explains that up until 15-20 years ago, sunscreens in East Asia were referred to as “protective bases” and have long been used as a daily essential in several environments across the region. This practice is especially common in Korean urban settings, as K-sunscreens offer protective benefits from other sources of light and pollution.
“K-beauty really started the trend we have (hopefully) adopted in the US that sunscreen is not optional and not only for the beach,” Kamen tells BeautyMatter. “Because Korea has had this philosophy for so long, they have been formulating sunscreens for layering on a daily basis for much longer than Western companies. We in the West are just catching up on proper sunscreen usage and consequently the use of more sophisticated formulations.”
K-sunscreens are usually a milky texture, developed with lightweight emollients (dimethicone and caprylic triglyceride) that ensure non-greasy, comfortable all-day wear. These products frequently contain ingredients such as centella, niacinamide, probiotics, and hyaluronic acid, known for their anti-aging, anti-inflammation, environmental protection, and moisturizing benefits. On Amazon, ingredient and formulation searches are growing because of the focus on K-sunscreen, with “centella sunscreen” searches increasing to 110K per month this year.
“Environmental protection mostly for those in urban areas is an interesting addition Western sunscreens don't tend to focus on,” Kamen says. “No surprise, the country that basically introduced the world to tiger grass/cica also often offers redness relief, soothing, and calming benefits in its SKUs, and products are therefore more suitable for sensitive skin.”
The Chemical vs Clean Clash
Kamen clarifies that K-sunscreens have different chemical UV filters than those approved by the American FDA (Uvinul A Plus, Tinosorb S, and Octinoxate). In the US, the FDA classifies sunscreens as over-the-counter drugs, which limits the types of chemical UV filters that can be used within products. “The Korean regulatory body (KFDA) is not as strict as ours, so it is easier to get sunscreens to market,” she continues.
In the US, a shift toward mineral-based sunscreens has emerged in the past few years, largely influenced by the increase of consumer concerns surrounding the health risks and environmental safety levels of chemical filters. Now, mineral sunscreens, which use ingredients such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, are believed to be safer alternatives to chemical filters, which have sparked concern due to their potential to cause skin irritation, as well as their harmful effects on marine life and ecosystems. In response, states including Hawaii and Florida, as well as the US Virgin Islands, have either banned (or restricted sales of) sunscreens containing the chemical filters oxybenzone and octinoxate in the effort to be more environmentally friendly.
According to Kamen, “US dermatologists tend to prefer and recommend mineral sunscreens over chemical sunscreens,” as a result of this shift and strict FDA regulations. “However, mineral sunscreens remain the most difficult to make aesthetically pleasing,” she states—referencing the white cast mineral sunscreens are more inclined to leave behind than their chemical counterparts. “As the majority of Korean sunscreens that we hear of as uniquely special are chemical sunscreens, they have little to no issues with a chalky, white cast,” Kamen adds.
Although there are sophisticated mineral sunscreens in the US that do not leave a white cast, these SKUs are often challenging to formulate and expensive to create. Such aesthetic issues and financial strains make US mineral sunscreens less appealing than Korean chemical alternatives, and 84% of US consumers state they want a sunscreen that has no white cast, yet struggle to find American-made offerings that overcome this issue.
Aside from making more cosmetically elegant options with added skincare benefits, K-beauty brands are continuously innovating to make their already commendable products more effective and safe for users. For sensitive skin in particular, brands are working to minimize the irritation from chemical filters, while maintaining effective SPF protection is a priority in product formulation. One example can be made of K-beauty brand Kocostar’s Mania Holic Sunscreen Pack. The product incorporates naturally derived cellulose, which forms a thin protective film on the skin, shielding it from potential irritation caused by chemicals.
“The testing and documentation required in Korea is similar to those in global markets. However, the overall process tends to be more streamlined, allowing it to be completed more quickly,” Ham Jeong Soo, Korean beauty manufacturer and founder of Kocostar, tells BeautyMatter.
More for Money
K-sunscreens are also grabbing the attention of US consumers due to their affordability. Recent financial uncertainty across the US market has led to a slight decline in beauty sales, and consumers are looking to save their cents wherever possible. In the past two years, Western sunscreen prices have soared by 30%, leading many to live in sun poverty, risking their health due to lack of affordability within the sunscreen division. However, 67% of consumers state they would begin to use sunscreen more regularly if products became less pricey.
Once again, K-sunscreen provides a means to an end, presenting Americans with the opportunity to tighten their wallets while still investing in beneficial products. “Korean sunscreen is generally more affordable than its American counterparts,” Sarah Chung Park, K-Beauty expert and CEO of Landing International Inc., tells BeautyMatter. “Since sunscreen is an everyday part of the Korean skincare routine, and not an occasion-dependent product, it gets treated as a product with a high repurchase rate and is therefore priced accordingly.”
Market Defense reveals that the average cost of a Korean sunscreen on Amazon comes in at $20.78 per product, whereas Western market contributions sit at $29.78. The lower priced options are proving a monetary success—the top three best-selling K-sunscreen brands on Amazon (Round Lab, Innisfree, and COSRX) respectively sell over $500K in sunscreen products alone each month. Round Lab’s Birch Juice Moisturizing Sunscreen (SPF50+ PA++++) takes the crown as Amazon’s number-one K-sunscreen, generating $638,639 in estimated monthly revenue.
The low cost of K-sunscreens opens the market to a broader range of consumers too. The reasonable price point of such SKUs is appreciated by younger consumers who naturally have less disposable income to spare, motivating them to buy into the category. “Given that K-beauty is viral on TikTok, it is the younger audience driving awareness for K-sunscreens; it makes sense that these lower prices are capturing their interest and loyalty,” adds Vanessa Kuykendall, CEO of Market Defense.
Cracking Compliance Codes
The opportunity and demand for K-sunscreens in the US market is so clear that one may question why every K-beauty brand is not investing in the overseas commercial space. However, entry into the American marketplace does not come without its challenges.
K-beauty brands that wish to be positioned officially as sunscreens (with additional skincare benefits), must follow strict FDA rules to be marketed in the US. “All sunscreens available on the US market are subject to the same set of regulatory requirements (including efficacy, product format, labeling, active ingredients, etc.) under an FDA over-the-counter (OTC) drug monograph, regardless of whether the sunscreen is domestically manufactured or imported from another country,” Meredith Petillo, Vice President of Technical and Regulatory Affairs at the IBA, tells BeautyMatter.
Petillo touches on the previously discussed limited UV filters approved by the FDA. “Many sunscreen products available in other countries, such as Korea, would not be allowed to be sold in the US because those products contain a UV filter, or combination of UV filters, that is not permitted in the US sunscreen monograph,” she adds.
In addition to formula considerations, the OTC monograph requires specific testing, manufacturing, and labeling requirements for sunscreens, so even if the formula is compliant for the US, additional work must be done to ensure the product meets all monograph requirements. Once the finished product itself is ready to go in terms of formula, labeling, testing, etc., the sunscreen product must also be listed with the FDA via the Electronic Drug Registration and Listing System (eDRLS).
“In some cases that means that what is legally sold in the US could be a different formula from what is sold in Korea,” Chung Park adds. The K-beauty expert was responsible for executing COSRX's successful entry into Ulta in 2017, and knows all too well the regulations required to be stocked in such beauty retailers. “Some Korean beauty brands like COSRX and Neogen have reformulated their products for the US that fit FDA approval and eliminate the higher-level UV filters that are present in the Korean market versions,” she adds.
While it is positive that Korean sunscreens can be reformulated to meet US regulations and enter the market, these changes can sometimes cause a catch-22. The reformulation process commonly involves altering or substituting UV filters to comply with FDA standards, which can result in thicker, more noticeable residue and white cast, leaving consumers with the same problem they were trying to escape.
Additionally, there are specific rules on wording that brands must follow if they are hoping to obtain a US stockist such as Sephora or Ulta. Petillo confirms that the only permitted product description the FDA allows is “sunscreen” and “sunblock” and other variations are not allowed. Similarly, sunscreens sold on the US market may only claim “water resistant” (and additionally specify either 40 or 80 minutes) depending on the results of a particular water resistance test procedure. “Waterproof” and other variations are not permitted.
“Creative positioning to avoid using ‘sunscreen’ or ‘SPF,’ but still imply a sun protection message to consumers could also be considered misbranding and subject a brand to enforcement action,” Petillo warns.
Another avenue for Korean brands to bring their K-sunscreens to the US would be through getting approval from the FDA as a new drug product under an NDA (New Drug Application) or ANDA (Abbreviated New Drug Application). “However, these processes are extremely expensive, can take many years, and there is no guarantee of approval at the end of the process, so it is not a practical or realistic pathway for a product category like sunscreen,” Petillo continues.
Despite rigorous testing measures, some K-beauty brands avoid FDA regulations by bypassing having a US distributor, shipping to the US from Korea, although this is not actually legal. “From a regulatory compliance perspective, there are no loopholes or special considerations for imported sunscreen products to bypass FDA requirements,” Petillo adds.
An industry expert (who did not wish to be named) explained that some Korean brands that have been known to ship internationally do not technically market in America, meaning they do not translate their products into the local language, which allows them to (illegally) bypass local laws.
“There's no way to sell a sunscreen and not have it be an OTC drug, according to the FDA. You can't say sunscreen at all. But I guess for now, it's not being scrutinized just like buying anything else from abroad,” the expert says. “It's also done super under the radar. Doing so is much cheaper too, of course, but the disadvantage is that customers are usually asked to foot the international shipping cost, but that isn't often a deterrent for people who just want to get their hands on a product."
Despite this, non-FDA-approved products are considered counterfeits on platforms like Amazon, meaning that unregistered sunscreens are often delisted if the seller is unable to confirm that their products follow the OTC sunscreen monograph. Several brands have disappeared from the US market without a trace due to this, after seeing that even though some have been able to avoid the FDA through these loopholes, they were eventually caught out.
Regulatory Reform
Many are calling for an FDA change in sunscreen regulations, to benefit both K-sunscreens entering the US market, and the domestic sunscreen market as a whole. Last year, NYC’s 14th district representative Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez took to TikTok with Dieux co-founder and licensed esthetician Charlotte Palermino to discuss the need for action from the FDA to revise its regulations. In the video, Ocasio-Cortez explains that there has been no innovation for a new sunscreen filter in the US since 1999, which she believes is blocking Americans' opportunity to access higher-performance UV filters that can be found in other countries.
“US sunscreens are far behind the rest of the world,” commented Ocasio-Cortez in the video. “I was in South Korea earlier this year and it is so clear how advanced the rest of the world is on sunscreens—we deserve better here in the US.” Ocasio-Cortez goes on to reveal that only half of US sunscreens meet the protection standards present in other locations such as Europe. “It’s not too corny—please contact your member of Congress,” Ocasio-Cortez urged viewers. “Ask them to break through some of the regulatory barriers at the FDA.”
Despite the video gaining a lot of attention, with 258.5K views and over 35K likes, current FDA regulations remain in place. In 2019, there was a small glimmer of hope that the 16 approved active ingredients for use in sunscreens would be revised by the FDA, catching up with the European Union (which classifies sunscreen as a cosmetic product like Korea), which currently allows 48 UV filters. The proposal sought more safety data on 12 commonly used ingredients, and reaffirmed the safety of two ingredients (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide), but raised concerns about others like PABA and trolamine salicylate. The FDA also proposed higher standards for broad-spectrum protection and UVA coverage. However, these changes were never finalized, leaving the outdated 1999 regulations in place, preventing newer, potentially more effective sunscreen ingredients from being approved for use in the US.
The Future of K-Sunscreen
Due to the rise of US consumers turning to K-beauty for their SPF fix, Korean brands are seizing this moment to innovate within the mineral sunscreen category too. “There is a growing demand among Korean consumers for sunscreens made with naturally derived ingredients that are safe for both the skin and the environment,” Jeong Soo affirms. “This effort not only aligns with global sustainability trends but also demonstrates Korea’s commitment to leading in all aspects of suncare innovation.”
Jeong Soo expresses that brands in the Korean market have begun research into ways they can enhance mineral sunscreen formulas. Other brands are combining chemical and physical filters to balance benefits like reducing white cast and improving texture, while also enhancing sustainability and UV protection.
To help make mineral-based formulas more palatable, Kocostar is currently developing a mineral-based formula that doubles as a primer, using patented marine cellulose instead of silicone. Aside from being easily removable with a mild cleanser, the formula will also have biodegradable benefits. “By using patented marine cellulose instead of silicone-based ingredients for the primer effect, we anticipate further enhancing its environmentally friendliness,” Jeong Soo adds.
Cosmetic Craze Conclusions
The rise of K-beauty and its sunscreens presents an array of opportunities as well as considerable challenges for both American and Korean beauty businesses wishing to sell in the competitive market. For US brands, the growing demand for sophisticated, multifunctional sunscreen SKUs indicates a shift in consumer expectations—specifically one that prioritizes skincare benefits and aesthetically pleasing formulations, while remaining sustainable. For K-beauty brands, the challenge remains with navigating complex US regulations while maintaining qualities that make their products so appealing—affordability, effectiveness, and cosmetic elegance.
Ultimately, the intersection of these opportunities and challenges will mold the future of the sunscreen market in the US. Domestic brands have the chance to learn from their Korean counterparts, embracing a more holistic approach to suncare. Meanwhile, K-beauty brands have the opportunity to expand their influence and gain a larger share of the market by innovating mineral sunscreens that meet US standards while preserving their core attributes. If both Korean and American businesses can navigate these complexities, they stand a sure chance to benefit from the ongoing K-beauty craze that shows no signs of slowing down.